레이블이 Seoul인 게시물을 표시합니다. 모든 게시물 표시
레이블이 Seoul인 게시물을 표시합니다. 모든 게시물 표시

2018년 11월 18일 일요일

Catching the Last Leaves of Autumn

[This post was originally published on Cent here]


It might just be me getting old, but autumn, my favorite season, seems to get shorter with each passing year.

Be that as it may, every autumn I look forward to seeing the leaves changing their colors. Especially here in Seoul.

Going on slow strolls with my wife up Mt. Nam each weekend of fall, to track the slow, but sure changes of the gingko trees as their leaves turn from summer green to sun stained yellow, is a tradition I'll try to keep alive as long as I have breath to breathe.

To mark the end of autumn I have one other tradition. A 366 year old gingko tree that my wife and I call Halmonee (Korean for grandma) lives in the center of the apartment complex adjacent to mine. Before winter arrives - like literally during the last few moments of autumn - about a million golden leaves flutter down to the ground from her branches. When that time arrives, my wife and I stand beneath Halmonee and try to catch as many of the last leaves of autumn as we can.

Today was one of those days. And it was glorious.

Do any of you have any special autumn traditions?

2018년 10월 25일 목요일

Selling It

S: I still haven't made it into Seoul yet. But where should I even go? Do you know any good tours?

M: I'll personally show you around. But the first place I'd take you is Mt. Nam. The fall colors are gorgeous, and it's a pleasant walk. At the top you can literally see every part of Seoul. So when we're looking out, I'll ask you which part looks like somewhere you'd like to explore, and then we'll go there.

2018년 7월 31일 화요일

Korean Negotiations - Dirty Ballet

I'm entering into yet another Korean negotiation at the moment.

Korean negotiations always begin as an impossibility. Literally.

If you try to negotiate in Korea - bless you - at the outset you will most likely be told something like: "Sorry but for 'x' reason we need to do (the opposite of what you want) so please accept what I just offered you." Thus the dirty ballet begins.

The dirty ballet-phase of Korean negotiations is essentially a back-and-forth of you making your initial request over and over, and your counterpart making excuses, stalling and begging you to accept whatever solution is easiest for them to gain approval for.

It's key to maintain your composure during this phase. It's equally important to pay close attention to everything your counterpart say - particularly their excuses.

Sometimes excuses can be legit. Korean corporations are notoriously rigid, and unless you're dealing directly with a senior executive or the CEO, your counterparty will be hard pressed to deviate from the standard approach.

Luckily I'm dealing directly with the VP in charge of the Corporate HR Team at my prospective new company. With senior executives a firm yet modest approach is the way to go in my experience. Hopefully that holds true again this time.

2018년 4월 1일 일요일

Hardboiled Easter Eggs

Although Korea has been a traditionally Buddhist country for centuries, since at least the mid-1980's, Christianity (i.e. Catholicism and Protestantism) has actually been the more popular religion. And it's popularity versus Buddhism continues to grow.

So it is not incorrect to say that Korea is a Christian country.

That said, unlike other Christian countries - or even non-Christian countries such as India - that observe Good Friday or give long holidays during Christmas, Korea, surprisingly but unsurprisingly, has continued to opt out of observing major traditional Christian holidays.

The lack of observed holidays hasn't stopped believers from observing the holy days in their own special way though.

In an odd twist, Korean Christians have for some reason adopted the commercialized, divorced-from-religion Easter Egg that are popular at Easter in America but combined it with Korean's love for hardboiled eggs.

As I was walking back home after a run and workout along the Han River with my wife this morning, we received no less than five hardboiled Easter eggs from church-going children, their parents and other adults.

I laughed at the oddity of receiving a hardboiled egg instead of a shiny plastic egg filled with some candy, but then I felt a sudden pang in my heart.

You see, dear readers, Cadbury Easter Eggs are my favorite treat in the whole fucking world, but they are impossible to get in Korea. Amazon can't even ship them. I have been Cadbury Easter Egg-less for nine years now in Korea.

So President Moon if you are reading this, I don't care if Korea never adds any Christian holiday to the calendar, but please, for the love of God and all things holy, lift whatever ban or embargo is in place that's preventing Cadbury Easter Eggs from entering Korea.

Please. And thank you. Amen.

2018년 3월 3일 토요일

The Brain Drain of the Korean War


I just started to re-read Son Jung-mok's five volume magnum opus 'The Story of Seoul's Urban Planning' the other day.

Part of the reason I wanted to re-read these books is because a single reading is simply not enough time to absorb all of the facts, figures and history contained in this collection that details Seoul's rapid development in the 50 year period following the Korean War.

It's my hope that over the course of my re-reading I can share some lesser known history with my dear readers, starting from today.

Most casual observers of history know that the Korean War was bloody and destructive. Enormous number of soldiers and civilians died as a result of the war. Seoul was destroyed - over 30% of buildings from personal homes and schools to banks and government buildings were obliterated either from bombing, fire or a combination of the two.

At the outset of war, Seoul had a population of around 1.5 million, 1.4 million of which resided north of the Han River. After North Korea attacked, 400,000 citizens immediately fled by crossing the Han and heading south. By December of 1950 that number increased to 800,000.

Over 95,000 Seoulites (i.e. non-military civilians) were lost between 4 am on 25 June 1950 until the armistice was signed nearly three years later on 27 July 1953.

The term 'lost' includes casualties as well as those who were slaughtered, abducted, and unaccounted for. There were 29,628 civilian casualties; 8,800 Seoul citizens who were slaughtered; and 20,738 civilians who were kidnapped by the North Koreans.

Before reading this work, I never heard or thought about any potential abductions, so after seeing that stat I was immediately curious who was targeted. It shouldn't have come as a surprise that the elites of South Korean society were the main targets of  the abductions: university professors, doctors, lawyers, judges, prosecutors, businessmen, and journalists occupy a large portion of the list of those who were abducted.

It didn't help that the elites were clustered in the Jongro and Central districts of Seoul. But it is mind blowing to think that over 32% of all lawyers (there were barely 100 lawyers at the time) in South Korea were abducted at once, literally overnight, by the North Koreans never to be seen again.

That fact makes the story of South Koreas rapid development after the war all the more amazing. And goes to show that "ordinary" people can accomplish outsized results.

2018년 1월 27일 토요일

Saturday Shopping

My Saturdays follow a very loose, but usually pretty regular routine.

Wake up around 9am, have a cup of hand ground, aeropressed coffee, run + pull-ups, shower/get ready, long walk, book reading at whichever cafe is our favorite at the time, dinner, drinks, topped off by a walk home if we still have enough gas in the tank.

Yesterday the wife and I added two things to our normal itinerary: bookstore & camera shopping.

After finishing a much needed soul warming bowl of 국밥 at 광화문국밥 we stopped by Kyobo Book Centre's Gwanghwamun location and both scooped a few books. She picked up '플러피의 샌드위치와 수프' a nice clean, simple recipe book for soup and sandwiches by 오쿠무라 카요 and I got 'The Everything Store' about Jeff Bezos and Amazon by Brad Stone.

Since finishing Trump's 'The Art of the Deal' I've been trying to find my next book to dive into and I think I found it. I just need to quickly wrap up Margaret Atwood's slightly wry, very bleak, and extremely dystopian 'The Handmaid's Tale' on loan to me from a friend and colleague. (Happy New Year).

On top of that, we have been in the market for a new camera recently. A few years back I received a good enough Samsung point and click from work that my wife has really enjoyed. It's been amazing watching her learn how to take some really good pictures. Her Instagram game is pretty tight as a result.

But we have definitely hit a performance limit with that camera, so we agreed that it is time for an upgrade. Instead of a DSLR which I owned in the past (Nikon D90 with 18-200mm VR lens - a perfect combo that would still hold up today), portability and convenience are just as important as performance to us, so we set our sights on a good mirrorless option.

And the mirrorless market has really come a long way in a short time - there are some fantastic cameras out there. In the end though we decided on a Sony A7R III with Zeiss T* FE 55m f/1.8 lens.

On top of heading to Sony's flagship Seoul store on three separate occasions, Ken Rockwell's Reviews are second to none when it comes to camera shopping for the most in-depth, unbiased reviews around, and just as when I originally bought my D90 in 2009, it played the biggest factor in helping us decided on this camera/lens pair. Of course Youtube was also helpful for double and triple checking that decision.

Can't wait to see what kind of pictures we can snap with that bad boy when we pick it up early February.

2017년 7월 14일 금요일

Off Key

Off key
But she likes me
Arms entwined
But time unwinds
Somehow foreign
But here born in
I'm deep bottled
Her, near tee-totaled

Oatmeal raison
Red velvet cake 'n
Wearin' same shirts 'n

Words left unsaid
But heard in bed
Somehow so different
But of same filiment
Cuddling atop covers
Alarm breaks slumber
But she still likes me
Off key

2017년 6월 30일 금요일

Too Real

Too real
To the real
Not political
Fuck that

Can't be
But sees
Their needs
Fucks that

Walks a line
What's fine
Or a crime
Fuck it

Most deep
Likes to creep
But weeps
Fucks given

Locked eyes
So high
In her thighs
We fucks

Not binary
More spectrum-ary
Future come early
Fucking to the real

2016년 11월 30일 수요일

술 상무

 Jamsil Island was very, very wide. When the decision was made to carry out public water reclamation works to connect the island to land to its south, it would have made sense to have the Seoul Metropolitan government carry out works instead of tendering the job to private firms.  Seoul Metropolitan submitted its application for a permit to carry out public water reclamation works on Jamsil Island to the Ministry of Construction on January 1, 1969.  The Ministry of Construction rejected this application under the following pretext: "There is a concern that should the width of the river be narrowed, such a change to the surface water profile may weaken its resistance to floods.  A further review will be undertaken following a report on the results of a hydraulic water experiment on the lower Han River basin in the Seoul Region."

Seoul Metropolitan submitted several more permit applications. They received no response to any of them. Then on August 26th, a reply to their permit application submitted on July 23, 1970, finally arrived.  "As concerns the works at hand, a private contractor would be preferred to having Seoul Metropolitan directly carry out works."  No reason was provided to the question of 'why exactly a private contractor was preferred' in the first place.  However, behind the Construction Ministry's response lay a contentious back and forth regarding the collection of so-called political funds.

During Park Chung Hee's time - which is to say throughout the 3rd and 4th republics - political funds were regularly solicited.  Korea's economic scale was much smaller then than it is today.  I also happen to know first hand that significant excesses were committed during the political fund collections - all of which had their own long term repercussions.  There was a striking feature in the way Park Chung Hee pooled political funds: he never once received anything from any business directly.

There were several channels, though.  The first was to have the Deputy Prime Minister cum Economic Planning Board Minister collect the funds. The Chaebol and large corporations we see in Korea today were basically all formed during the 3rd and 4th Republics.  Capital infusion and special interest rates, along with favorable tax schemes, were the three means by which the Chaebol developed under.  All of these measures were under the direct control of the Deputy Prime Minister cum Economic Planning Minister.  To give an example of customary practice, when large sums of capital were provided, a percentage of the funds would then be set aside to be sent up as political funds.

The second channel was to have the Chairman of the then ruling Republican Party's Finance Committee gather the funds.  I'm not sure how things operate today, but during the 3rd and 4th Republics, nearly all of the large construction works let to market by the Central Government, government-owned enterprises, and the Seoul Metropolitan Government were awarded either through privately negotiated contracts or nominated competitive tenders.  To say that there was no such thing as a normal competitive tender isn't an exaggeration.  These nominations were at the sole discretion of the Republican Party's Finance Committee Chairman.  So in practice, when a new project was ready to come to market, a percentage of political funds would be sent up. Then the size and scale of the works awarded to the various contractors would be distributed based on the amount of funds provided.  The Finance Committee Chairman would take a portion of the political funds received and send them up to the Blue House with remaining funds used to cover Party operating expenses.  Over the years, Kim Youngtae, Kim Seong-goen, Kim Jin-min and other notable figures would serve as the Finance Committee Chairman, occupying a more important role than either the Leader of the Floor or Secretary General.  Kim Youngtae was a private citizen who was a central figure in the May 16 Coup d'tat, Kim Seong-nam was the founder of Ssangyong Group, and Kim Jin-min was the founder of Dongbu Group. Hence, it's no surprise that they were the Chief Financial Operators of their party and held outsized influence.

Annual 'Rice Cake Bonuses' (떡값) at Chuseok or the end of the year were the third  channel.  These 'bonuses' were facilitated by the Chief Presidential Secretary or Chief of Security.

Outside of these channels there were times when the Head of the Korean Central Intelligence Agency or Seoul Mayor would collect and send up funds.  Of course, there was obvious competition behind the collecting and passing up of political funds in an effort to be seen as more loyal to the president.  Demarcated lines were drawn between those in the ruling elite and those who they typically used their influence on to collect the political funds.  The Economic Planning Minister would typically recieve funds from corporations, and the Republican Party Finance Committee Chairman would bring in funds from contractors.  Large corporations at that time would typically have a full-time position manned by an individual responsible for sending up these political funds, which held a rank equivalent to that of the CEO.  This person was the VP of Liquor (술 상무).

Then one day, in the second half of 1969, the Deputy Prime Minister cum Economic Planning Minister Kim Hak-legal contacted the managing directors (chairman or CEO level) of five major contractors.  The managing directors of Hyundai Construction, Daelim Industries, Geukdong Construction, Sambu Civil Works, and Donga Construction.  They were told to come to the office of the Economic Planning Minsters the next day at a certain time.  Kim Hak-leol requested a rather large political contribution from each of the five individuals (Hyundai's Chung Joo-Young; Lee Jae-June from Daelim; Kim Yong-San of Geukdong; Cho Jung-Gu of Sambu, and Donga's Choi June-Moon).

On September 14, 1969 in the 3rd annex of the National Assembly, the constitutional revision allowing a third consecutive term for Park Chung Hee was passed, with the approving public referendum taking place shortly thereafter on October 17.  In accordance with the constitutional revision, both the presidential as well as National Assembly elections were held on April 5, 1971.  During this period between 1969 and 1971, there must have been quite a need for political funds, since that would explain the Deputy Prime Minister Kim's unusual request for politcal funds to this group of contractors who were outside of his normal corporate targets.

The contractors were all opposed to the Deputy Prime Ministers request.  "We are already sending up political funds to the Republican Party Finance Committee Chairman every time we are awarded new projects.  It just isn't reasonable for the Economic Planning Minister to now request that we send up political funds to him too."  Hearing their objection, the Deputy Prime Minister proposed that in exchange for their politcal funds, they would receive the rights to the Jamsil public water reclamation works project.  If they were to block the waterway to the south side of Jamsil island, connect it with the land adjacent to it, and build up a dike along its northern border, a massive section of reclaimed land would be formed.  They would then have the right to that enormous amount of virgin land.  The five manging directors all immediately accepted the proposal and promised to send up the political funds that the Deputy Prime Ministers had requested.

 ~ An original translation
    from Volume III of Son Jung-mok's
    'The Story of Seoul's City Planning'

 Son Jung-mok: Former Director of Seoul City Planning Bureau, Internal Affairs Ministry, and Deputy Director of the National Assembly Budget Office for Planning and Management

2016년 5월 31일 화요일

Korean PC Game Rooms & Kakao Talk

What do a piece of parking lot management software, a former Samsung employee and Kakao all have in common?

A lot.

That former Samsung employee of course being Kim Bomsu.  He of course - of course -  was responsible for getting a former Seoul National University Graduate School buddy who later became a coworker at Samsung SDS to adapt a piece of software originally developed to manage paid parking lots to instead help PC Room managers keep track of individual users and how much time they spent using a machine and how much they owed.  He then of course - of course - went on to market the hell out of that software (i.e. offering it for free, of course) to every other PC Room located on the Korean Peninsula until every PC Room on the peninsula had it installed and relied on it to an insane degree.

With that platform in place, Kim Bomsu and crew created Han Game, a gaming platform made up of simple, digitized card and board games, and embedded it in the PC Room management system.  In half a year, Han Game amassed 10 million users, and it's server fees were about to bankrupt the team, but then the CEO of a fledgling web portal approached Bomsu and offered ㅇㅇㅇ won to acquire Han Game.

That CEO was ㅇㅇㅇ, also an alumnus of Seoul National University and Samsung SDS, and Naver was the web portal who at the time was fighting the twin giants of Yahoo Korea and Daum.

2015년 6월 30일 화요일

Seoul City

The city I reside in has 10 million inhabitants and thus has earned the designation of 'Mega City'.  Every city is unique, but broadly speaking there seems to be two seperate species: Inclusive Cities like those found in many Western countries (i.e. melting pots) and Exclusive Cities like those found in North East & South Eastern Asia where the dominant-historic inhabitants or the 'Locals' generally do not readily absorb 'Others'.  My city represents the latter.   As I myself am an 'Other', it is interesting to note that there are a quarter of a million other Others of which 77% or a little over 200,000 are Chinese or ethnic Korean-Chinese; 11,000 are from the USA with another 4,000 hailing from Canada, Australian or Western European countries.  There is a sizable Eastern Bloc/Central Asian/Russian contingent in addition to significant numbers of Others from India and South East Asia.

As an Exclusive City, there are a few noteworthy phenomena worth pointing out.  Firstly, there are the multiple diasporic groupings of each Other group that pocket the city.  There are unofficial (i.e. real) China Towns situated adjacent to the Konkuk University and Sinlim Metros; ethnic  Korean-Chinese and Joseon (i.e. North Koreans) occupy a significant area around Sinlim Metro Station; long-term American expats - mainly Korean-Americans, other US citizens and Military but also not a small contingent of Canadians not to mention the ever increasing diverse group of Muslims and Africans - reside within the Yongsan District of Central Seoul south of Namsan especially concentrated within the neighborhoods of Itaewon and Noksapyeong; Russians and Russian speaking Central Asians can be found in large numbers around the West End of Dongdaemun Market; more ethnic Korean-Chinese Joseon as well as SE Asians in particular also gather en masse on the weekends up around Hyehwa Metro Station.  What these clusters of diasporic groupings result in are restaurants, bakeries, lodging, miscelaneous services and a myriad of shops catering specifically towards each specific Other group.  As a last note, a massive influx of Chinese tourists has resulted in sections of Seoul - specifically nearby the metros of Hongik University and Chungmuro (Seoul's Old Hollywood) - becomming short-term Chinese diasporas of sorts.

The other point that I can't stress enough is the dynamic amalgamation inherent within Exclusive cities exhibited by the fact that these Other clusters are largely ignored by Koreans - until they aren't.  They are self-contained and largely - if unconsciously - self-supporting groupings containing elements of key specialized and unique marketplaces; yet they lack any formal unity and are essentially composed of individuals whose only commonality resides in the fact that they share the same Otherness.  In the case of Itaewon and Noksapyeong, the unique food scene and culture on offer have ignited an explosion of interest from Koreans.  This example highlights the under-recognized potential of all the diasporic groupings within the city.  At the same time it must be stressed again - and despite being a common human phenomenon it seems to be overlooked more often than not - that the tastes, wants and needs of Koreans very rarely all line-up with Others, and vice versa.  This aspect in particular musn't be viewed as a short-comming, but instead should be thought of as a key piece of strategic intelligence that any group - Korean or Other - must always be cognizant of.  For example, a foreign dish or food item like the churro is traditionally enjoyed in certain countries in very specific contexts - contexts that may not be easily translated within Seoul or Korea  - but by creating a familiar context for the Korean consumer, as the recent explosive success garnished by the Street Churro brand has with it's up-scale-lite cafe concept, the curiosity that a foreign idea or concept naturally arouses can be augmented by an order of magnitude.

If I may however, I would like to delve back down to those groups of Others residing within this City of Ours, focusing particularly on the neighborhoods of Itaewon and Noksapyeong.  It is supremely interesting to note that when it comes to the success of Street Churro in Korea - the most conspicuous evidence of which can be gleamed at the beginning of of an alleyway within Noksapyeong on any given day, night or weekend - is the antipathy it arouses from the Other residents.  Why this is noteworthy is simple: This very traditional ex-pat and US military personnel haunt had been for years neglected by typical Koreans for the most part - owing to various reasons - and most importantly within the last 10 years as a result of comparatively low rent and a large population of Others it has been a place where overseas Koreans and long-term expats have been able to safely and openly experiment with various entrepreneurial ventures centering mainly around eateries and brew-pub-style bars.  Very simply, a conspicuous community of Others seemed to be taking root and with that a pride began to form - a pride not unlike that which citizens have when it comes to their home towns and countries.  The success of places similar to Street Churro - lightning rods of Local attention and new traffic - while of course presenting new oppurtunities in the form of ever larger swarms of consumers, also brings with it the con-joined threats of sky-high rent and thus the inescapable demand to bring in higher and higher sales; this last point of course implying the need to cater to the Local consumer more which inevitably leads to the alienation of the original group of Others and (re?)amalgamation into the Local reality.

This is the current state of affairs as it concerns the continued development of both Noksapyeong and Itaewon neighborhoods.  Of course, differences and similarities there are many even between these two halves of the same whole.  For instance, the back alleys of Itaewon behind Yongsan District Office, well off of the main thoroughfares, are experiencing a renaissance of sorts as a large number of small shops are setting up business bringing with them totally new foods and attitudes to what was before just a desolate path leading to the Hill of Homo and Hooker.  That said, the bearing of both neighborhoods is identical and is inclining towards a shared conclusion.  The best example of what that inclined bearing portends can be readily seen through the neighborhood of Sinsa and specifically Garusu Street; put simply a culturally hollow yet still - owing to the images and perceptions still held by many stemming from the long-forgotten original neighborhood that first earned it notoriety and attention in the first place - self-sustaining commercial wasteland with rents that only the largest companies or wealthiest patrons can afford.  This phenomenon, that is, Korean-style gentrification if you will, appears to be an unassailable fact of life for those residing within Seoul.   While to many this fact will present itself as an impending doomsday when they too will be forced out of their life-long residences or small shops to make way for a new Angel-in-us coffee shop, to me at least this is yet another key piece of strategic urban intelligence that one must always have in the back of their mind.

Across this verbose - if not convoluted - overview laid out above, a very important distinction should have been noted by any reader who has made it to this point; in contra-distinction to a typically unified diasporic community of Others, the Itaewon and Noksapyeong neighborhoods - specifically the diasporic community residing therein - experienced the beginnings of a unification underpinned by the formation of a mutually shared pride based in large part on the contrastingly different - dare I say rebellious flouting of Local tastes and norms associated with the Local - food scene and attitude toward living and working.  To make it clear and re-emphasize the point, a tangible thread has been strung through this hitherto simple collection of individual actors thus earning it the graduated character of a community!

2014년 11월 16일 일요일

That Laugh

That laugh, oh man~~ that laugh.

Crisp autumn afternoons, relaxed hand-clasped walks through Jeong-dong and that laugh!
Caught in a Dali-esque golden frame of wind blown leaves on Nam-san and man~~ that smile!
Quixotic scene of old and new Jung-gu apartments with us just loungin' above, staring boy~~ at those eyes!
Carried to the altar in our loves warm embrace, we stand and hold hands, I love you and oh~~ that laugh!

2014년 7월 28일 월요일

Fuckin' Isotopes

The sky is full of smoke
And fuckin' isotopes.
Do I sit back and toke
Because I haven't hope?

Now: so dope, so dope.

2014년 4월 16일 수요일

Fuckwitedness

A day with dangerous levels of air pollution is like a tornado heading your way.  While you can't really avoid it, you're better off staying indoors (in the basement or preferably a storm cellar in the event of a tornado) as opposed to walking outside into it.

2014년 4월 13일 일요일

명동 불금의 어느 외국인 관광객 이야기

불금이 끝나갈 새벽 12시 무렵 그들의 눈빛이 우연히 마주친다.

3명, 모두 중동이나 어디 아세안 나라 출신으로 보이는 미인들.

근데 이거 뭐지?

외국인 관광객 중심인 명동거리 입구 앞에서 택시를 잡으려고 하는 그들은 택시를 못잡고 헤매고 있다.

헐.

이미 몇번이나 잡으려 했나 본데. 택시 하나가 속도를 늦추며 태워줄 듯 한데 마지막 순간에 (왠지) 승객의 낯선 외모에 엔진을 심하게 밟아 빨리 도망가버린다.

승객이 없었는데도 말이다. 아휴 답답하다.

이러니 그들은 얼마나 더 답답할까. 

다음에 더 용기(?) 있는 택시가 다가서더니 한국말로 어디까지 가느냐라고 기본적인 질문을 던진다. 

처음 한국을 방문한 그녀들 (국빈이라고 하자) 에게는 아무 말도 없이 무시하고 지나가는것이나 다름 없는 말이지 않는가.

 양쪽은 잠잠히 침묵하며 서로가 서로를 그냥 쳐다보고 있었다.

이 순간에 내가 나섰다. 그들이 가려는 목적지를 파악하고 기사한테 우리말로(한국말로) 당당하지만 실망섞인 말투로 이렇게 말했다.

'아저씨, 여기서 유턴해서 남산 1호 터널으로 가시고 한남대교 건너시면 신사사거리에서 우회전하시고 한 300미터 이후 오른쪽에 ㅇㅇㅇ관광객호텔에서 세워 주십시오. 아저씨, 잠시 교류 중인 저희 나라 국빈들을 잘 부탁드립니다.'

아 아~예 알겠습니다라는 말이 당황한 기사 입 밖으로 나오자마자 난 앞으로 우리 나라를 방문한 국빈을 더 잘 챙겨달라는 의미를 실어 내가 뒷문을 세게 닫았다.

몇분 뒤에 인천공항으로 향하는 공항버스를 타고 이 나라를 영원히 떠났다.

2014년 4월 1일 화요일

Cherry Blossoms

Cherry Blossoms seem to engender a near mythical appreciation.  They are the definitive message bearer to the masses that the long, hard Winter has fallen to the sudden, surprise, early thrust spear of Spring.  The blossoms themselves will lead any casual observer to those memories - or fantasies for those as-yet-uninitiated - of youth when one first becomes aware of the opposite sexes surfeit of supple, unblemished smoothness.  This in turn is also, apart from being the place of their actual origin, probably what leads many to associate the blossoms with Japan and its culture.

That said, many other countries as well, including South Korea and the United States, have unofficial periods wherein the blooming of these trees is announced, celebrated and enjoyed by its citizenry.  These celebrations are more natural in that they are informal and lacking governmental or organizational auspices - which is to say that they do not take place within a conspicuous human enframing.  It is nature itself that calls to man as it were, to come hither to catch a glimpse of perfection, which if the blossom itself is any indication only occurs in youth.  Those so lucky to actually witness that moment, and it really is The Moment when the blossoms are in full bloom - and by full bloom I am not talking about the early, awkward stages of blooming when their skinny, pointed limbs are all too clearly visible and I am especially not talking about the later stage when the ugly, green leaves, the body hair if you will, poke through the perfect skin of blossoms that just form a complete, seemingly impenetrable orb of angelic whiteness around those awkward limbs - is to be bestowed with and at the same time burdened by Truth.  And it is probably for this reason why many will simply pay it no mind and miss it altogether.

We lateborn, unfortunately, are no longer able to readily receive Truth let alone begin to comprehend it.  Just try asking yourself what you believe Truth is or means.  A few mental stuttering starts heading nowhere, probably followed by an anecdote of modern usage that goes something like the following: truth is something agreed upon, ideally based on fact, and that upon hearing or reading usually elicits a "Yeah, (I think) that is true" or something to that effect.  Or maybe those of you who hail from institutions with latinate mottos (full disclosure: the motto of my alma mater, Korea University, is 'Libertas, Justitia, Veritas') will pay heed to the fact that Truth as spoken today in most romantic languages at least, derives from the Latin 'Veritas'.  (The etymological origins of 'truth' as spoken in English, it should be noted, shares a closer affinity than we would like to admit with 'faith' and even 'loyalty', which is food enough for thought itself).  That said, I don't know of anyone who actually knows let alone can indicate how exactly Veritas was thought of when it was still part of a living vernacular.  

Veritas was not an original, thoughtful construct in Roman times, however, it was the translation of the Greek 'Aletheia' into Roman thought and as a result this thoughtful Greek Word has been brought into our modern language in an equally violent manner being called 'Truth'.  To put it simply, the Greek word speaks of an "unconcealedness" or literally "the state of not being hidden". Moving fore, treading closer to the danger, and not for the mere purpose of highlighting etymological similarities, although such similarities cannot be said to not exist, I would like to briefly touch upon 眞理 or Zhenli or 진리.  There are probably many ways to think through this word, or set of characters, and the argument could probably be made as to whether one should even try to think through the couplet or instead focus on one character at a time or even if such an attempt should be made at all!

Shall we not at least try to take a leap, perhaps even a leap of faith towards what may be true? A good place to start along a way to thinking, generally, is through the thoughts of an actual thinker.  Regarding '眞', Zhuangzi (莊子) has already thought this character through as meaning 'Every-thing as it is' or '있는 그대로' in Korean.  The second character, a compound of the radicals 玉 + 里, that when taken in isolation respectively indicate a precious gem and a village.  Together, nowadays, when combined the resulting '理 ' is translated as either 'control' or 'logic', but these translations, especially the former, are ex post facto derivations.  Derived from what? In both cases, the original gem and village denote the 'explicit implicitness' or the concealed nature of both objects.  In the case of a precious gem, actually what is emphasized and always apparent first is the rough stone with the gem itself being unseen and only revealed later. A village is always only a village, and an area only comes to be called a village by virtue of the inhabitants that often exist in obscurity, or concealedness therein. So to be clear, the aspect of control that the above character has come to embody happened after, and only after the rough exerior of the gem or the nameless inhabitants of a village were forgotten in the sense that it became so simple to control the attaining of the gem itself or the groups of contained people.  

The above attempt at beginning to think through '眞理', which now that it is safe to say is an approximation of Truth in both Chinese, Japanese and Korean, was given solely as food for thought. In this moment the matter at hand, however, is Cherry Blossoms.  Cherry Blossoms, as mentioned at the outset, tend to evoke associations of Japan and its culture.  As a matter of fact, the Japanese have for centuries made it a practice to picnic or sojourn under blooming Cherry Blossoms.  In their traditional poetry, Cherry Blossoms were expressed reverentially by the single character denoting all flowers '花' for more than a millennia and some centuries.  Why? Well, I guess, since '花' is composed of '艹' a radical simply demarcating something as a plant and '化' symbolizing man becoming man from man, then the Japanese must therefore have had an original, intimate experience wherein the Cherry Blossoms, and particularly Cherry Blossoms in full bloom came to represent not just plants that become unconcealed from out of the concealement that exists and is protected within plants which they in turn again appear within, but also that opening into what is concealed in man that allows man to become unconcealed as such.  Or were you asking why Japanese picnicked beneath Cherry Blossoms in full bloom? Or did I answer that question too?

Unconcealedness needs concealedness.  What is concealed is therefore no less true than what is unconcealed.  The long, hard Winter that is now forgotten, out of sight and mind, has allowed the Beauty of Unconcealment to shine forth in full bloom by concealing itself.  Does the poetry of the Japanese mean as much when they employ '花' to represent Cherry Blossoms?  Who can say?  Some light may befall our blind struggles fore if we remember poetry has always been Song. Laudes is the Latin name for songs.  Laudare is a eulogy or praise.  Maybe the ancient Greek myths were just long poems that were singing, praising, eulogizing, remembering what has been and thus what could be again and Japanese Poems are myths along the Same vein.  If so, and even if not, I like to think of Cherry Blossoms as our Myth of Life, a life that may oft be forgotten, but will always be remembered, if not knowingly.

P.S. The Japanese call and know 'word' as 言葉 or petal(s) of saying...

2014년 3월 27일 목요일

2014년 3월 25일 화요일

한강 개나리

Those spring spots of yellow,
Do well to soothe this fellow.

Heart heavy and eyes the same,
No one but myself to blame.

Sorry will never do for you,
To cover over all I couldn't do.

But this know over and above,
Always, forever we'll share our love.

2014년 3월 23일 일요일

An Old Man and his Old Dog

As we came to a stop in front of Embassy Row, enjoying a shallow respite before crossing the Han, I glanced over to my left and saw them. They were about to walk over the crosswalk, but wavered as if they were waiting for something, or someone. Despondently, resigned to being alone for yet another day, they took off as only an Old Man and Old Dog can do. Slowly. The Old Man took the lead early and never relinquished it. Behind, gingerly the Old Dog struggled valiantly to keep up, pushing his creaky limbs harder than he had in years  through the leg holes in his brand new red pleated, nylon jacket. Looking ahead, towards something, the Old Man's eyes sat staidly, sunk within sockets entombed by two coke bottle lenses. As we began to lurch forward, I craned my neck to watch the Old Man and Old Dog fade from view. They were continuing fore; slowly, shakily, but surely.

2014년 3월 18일 화요일

You Know You're Homeless When...

A faint ruffling ~phew phlew~ stirs your senses in the early morning only to become aware of a damp coldness rockhard against your left cheek.  An intoxicatingly unpleasant odor then...you open your eyes.  A pigeon, greasy from the city slime and less one leg, approaches your face.